British Ex-Soldiers Set Everest Record with Rapid Ascent Using New Technique

The team reached the 8,849-metre (29,032-foot) summit early on May 21st, having begun their ascent from base camp just four days and 18 hours earlier. This approach bypassed the traditional acclimatisation process that typically takes climbers six to eight weeks and involves multiple rotations between base camp and higher altitudes.

Instead, the climbers spent six weeks before the expedition sleeping in hypoxic tents, designed to simulate high-altitude oxygen levels. In addition to this, they inhaled xenon gas at a German clinic shortly before arriving in Nepal. This gas, believed by some researchers to boost the body’s red blood cell production and resist altitude sickness, remains a subject of scientific debate.

The use of xenon gas has sparked controversy within the mountaineering community. Critics argue that the science is inconclusive and warn against potential health risks. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation has cautioned that acclimatisation is a complex physiological process that cannot be replicated or replaced by a single treatment.

Some expedition leaders support the use of hypoxic training to reduce time on the mountain but remain skeptical of chemical aids like xenon. They argue that relying on such shortcuts could compromise the integrity and safety of high-altitude climbing.

Despite the concerns, the successful ascent by the British team may influence future expeditions, potentially altering how climbers prepare for Everest. There are also implications for Nepal’s mountaineering industry, which relies on the prolonged presence of climbers during the acclimatisation period.

Authorities in Nepal said they were unaware the climbers were attempting the summit without traditional acclimatisation. Officials have since indicated they will review the situation and consider appropriate next steps.

According to the expedition’s organiser, one benefit of such a fast climb is a reduced environmental footprint. A shorter expedition means fewer resources used and less time exposed to the mountain’s extreme hazards.

While not the fastest recorded time from base camp to summit—that title belongs to Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa’s 10-hour, 56-minute climb in 2003 following full acclimatisation—this feat marks the quickest known Everest ascent without time spent acclimatising on the mountain.